It is, but I'm inconveniently in Canada. Most places ship for free over $100 (= ~£60) here
Almost certainly. The prices went up as soon as everyone either got bored and bought a printer to play with, or started printing out PPE equipment. Even in the week between me buying reels from the same manufacturer from the same place the price had gone up 20%, Supply and demand. I should think once all the existing and new printer owner go back to regular levels and demand drops supply will catch up and prices will drop again.
Hmm not come across this channel before in the 3dprinter context, I guess they have given them an exam as it is a high audience makers channel. Will watch the video later, looks quite short at 6 mins, much shorter than most of the reviews.jonb wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 7:12 amThere's another review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9BDPS-a_g0
Not very informative, apart from the bit where he says the filament supplied with the machine isn't very good. Rather unhelpfully, he shows a different filament that looked to have printed really well, but doesn't say what brand it is.
it should be fine.You are right. I just tested one, they don’t float, not with PLA anyway.jonb wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 11:51 amHa! I’m not going to make any stupid Benchies. Silly little thing that doesn’t even float! I note the propensity of 3D printer owners for making ornamental knickknacks and really, my study is cluttered enough.
Definitely will print some test objects though, just to get the settings dialled in. I know it is supposed to come with a Cura profile but I would be very surprised if it was spot on. Plus, “playtime”!
But at least you have learned an awful lot about the machinery, and you can answer the question of "Just how far can I take a RepRap?" with authority.
I think you might be surprised how good these Cura profiles are. There's not much variation to commercial machines.
Only the make it one that said filament was not good, the others I don’t remember commenting on it. Might have been a bad batch. Also the you tube channels often have filament sponsorship ....... so it will probably be fine. Certainly just for destroying while working out what is what. (I hope so anyway).
I am on the Facebook forums but rarely post, Reddit I had never used before 3D printing but I am gradually getting to grips with it as it is better than Facebook, although generally less traffic (not sure if that is a good or bad point, probably good).
I'm still haven't found a good 3D printing forum. Meaning by that, a forum with a decent number of users that works like this one as opposed to a Reddit or Facebook group. Cannot stand those formats, it's almost impossible to search them and follow threads. Any suggestions? Also, frustrating to watch yooootubez and not be able to ask a question. I mean, some are informative but you're only getting what the presenter wants to convey.
I think it wouldn’t work very well and you would end up inhaling toxic burning PTFE, as you have no heat break. The hotend is aluminium (or copper on high temp ones) but the heat break is a much less heat conductive material like titanium or stainless steel. So fitting an insert doesn’t put a full heat brake in. You could make your insert out of stainless steel but the outside being aluminium it would bypass it, so wouldn’t be effective as a heat break. Or the plastic would find a way into a joins and jam it all up. Not sure it is worth the risk
Example: The CR6 modular hot end has a metal sleeve that passes through the heat sink on its way to the heater block. It's machined to take a Bowden tube all the way to the nozzle. It should be possible to make a sleeve that is machined for the filament width (1.75mm) with a shoulder for the Bowden tube to sit on, such that it is away from the heat. This would convert the hot end to "all metal", in effect, and thus allow for higher printing temperatures. All for the cost of a tiny machined sleeve. Several people asked on the CR6 Kickstarter if this is feasible, but Creality haven't answered (as they have not answered many of the more interesting questions).
What you you think?
I have to defer to your superior knowledge on this one.. but what I am describing moves the Bowden tube further from the heat, not nearer, so it seems counter intuitive to suggest it will get hotter. You'd just need to machine the replacement sleeve from the right material, surely?Elminster wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 9:20 am
I think it wouldn’t work very well and you would end up inhaling toxic burning PTFE, as you have no heat break. The hotend is aluminium (or copper on high temp ones) but the heat break is a much less heat conductive material like titanium or stainless steel. So fitting an insert doesn’t put a full heat brake in. You could make your insert out of stainless steel but the outside being aluminium it would bypass it, so wouldn’t be effective as a heat break. Or the plastic would find a way into a joins and jam it all up. Not sure it is worth the risk
Agreed, but it'll be expensive compared to a replacement heat brake.I bet it won’t belong before someone comes up with a kit to mount a micro Swiss or e3d hotend into the CR6.
You just misunderstood what I mean. If you use it in the same way as before then indeed it will not get hotter, but then no point in doing it. So if the whole point in putting in an all metal end is to run the hotend hotter to use different materials, that heat is going to creep up faster than a real all metal hotend, and if it doesn't have adequate cooling or can't cool fast enough it will get much hotter the designed for, and if that heat reaches the temp at which PTFE stars to go horrible, you kill all your pets. You wont get that issue with a real all metal hotend.jonb wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 9:39 amI have to defer to your superior knowledge on this one.. but what I am describing moves the Bowden tube further from the heat, not nearer, so it seems counter intuitive to suggest it will get hotter. You'd just need to machine the replacement sleeve from the right material, surely?Elminster wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 9:20 am
I think it wouldn’t work very well and you would end up inhaling toxic burning PTFE, as you have no heat break. The hotend is aluminium (or copper on high temp ones) but the heat break is a much less heat conductive material like titanium or stainless steel. So fitting an insert doesn’t put a full heat brake in. You could make your insert out of stainless steel but the outside being aluminium it would bypass it, so wouldn’t be effective as a heat break. Or the plastic would find a way into a joins and jam it all up. Not sure it is worth the risk
I havent actually looked at the hotend for the CR6 until now.jonb wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 9:39 am
Consider this picture of the hotend components. The machined tube is arrowed, I think this is the heat brake, not an insert. It appears to screw into the heated block. The Bowden tube goes through this right to the nozzle. So if a copy was machined so only the filament went through it with the Bowden tube sitting at the cold end, the result would be an all metal hot end, in effect (if I have the right understanding of the differences). And it is just one tiny threaded tube.
Inkedmodular hot end_LI.jpg
Yes but that clone E3D hotend from an mainstream Chinesse manufactured cost a few £'s so not really expensive compared to creating a custom partAgreed, but it'll be expensive compared to a replacement heat brake.I bet it won’t belong before someone comes up with a kit to mount a micro Swiss or e3d hotend into the CR6.
Best not to, I only have a few weeks more experience than you and I make it up as I go along.
I guess it depends what they put in its place, Meanwell arent the only branded psu supplier in the world.jonb wrote: ↑Fri May 29, 2020 9:58 pmCreality are now saying there won't be a Meanwell PSU fitted to the CR-6 SE.
Siting supply shortages. It's in the KS comments section. Many backers are threatening to cancel.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR6/comments/g ... witcheroo/
Agree.scruss wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 12:49 amI really don't think you'll find a 3d printing forum like Stardot, as there are very few forums with the respectful, ego-free style that Stardot has. 3d printing has a lot of hype, and so there are overly strong opinions often from under-qualified commentators.
Ooh, I saw them at MRRF last year. Looks like it adds a whole lot of backlash, because that torque cable and gearbox has a bunch of windup, and so you have to fiddle with retraction settings. You'll be on team direct drive 4 lyfe if you've ever had to fish 30+ pieces of shattered PLA, each less than 10 mm long, out of your Bowden tube after a particularly bad filament experience.
This is something that only having a homebrew printer do you need to worry about. On the Prusa, Ender 3 and the PrintrBot, you just load the config and go. I don't think I know where I'd find esteps on those machines. It's not something that regular users need to think about.Also lots of conflicting info about things like doing your esteps for extruder.
tbh the 3d printer is the least interesting part. It's what you can do with it that matters.There also seems to be a bit of friction between the ‘old guard’ pre-you tube 3D printers and the new generation
It's already here. While it's ridiculously expensive, you should try one of the Dremel printers. You don't have to know anything. Hit print, get a thing. I think the Dremel even appears under Windows 10's 3d print service automatically, if it's on the same network. Hit print in your app, 3d printer goes brrrr.I think it is getting close to the stage where anyone can operate a printer
Supposedly the V2 is excellent for when you need direct drive but can only have a Bowden. That was from an independent cynic, so sounds promising. It is the only way you could probably get direct drive on something like a Huxley or a delta. I expect once others pickup on it they will get developed more. Interesting idea anyway.scruss wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 6:09 pmOoh, I saw them at MRRF last year. Looks like it adds a whole lot of backlash, because that torque cable and gearbox has a bunch of windup, and so you have to fiddle with retraction settings. You'll be on team direct drive 4 lyfe if you've ever had to fish 30+ pieces of shattered PLA, each less than 10 mm long, out of your Bowden tube after a particularly bad filament experience.
That will be me then with bond tech extruder arriving Wednesday, and replaced Mxl with gt2 belt today, for no real reason.This is something that only having a homebrew printer do you need to worry about. On the Prusa, Ender 3 and the PrintrBot, you just load the config and go. I don't think I know where I'd find esteps on those machines. It's not something that regular users need to think aboutAlso lots of conflicting info about things like doing your esteps for extruder.
But that is my point ... We aren’t there. Not until we have that functionally for sub $500 dollars/pounds (I.e. ender3/CR6/price). My yard stick is, when my mum can do it Without daily help and without spending a lot of money it has reached the average consumer. (I exclude MS windows from this, people seem to use it but I gave up on windows for my mum and gave her macOS).It's already here. While it's ridiculously expensive, you should try one of the Dremel printers. You don't have to know anything. Hit print, get a thing. I think the Dremel even appears under Windows 10's 3d print service automatically, if it's on the same network. Hit print in your app, 3d printer goes brrrr.I think it is getting close to the stage where anyone can operate a printer
And jealous about MRRF that always sounds like a blast. Don’t see me getting to one of those even if the world wasn’t locked down.scruss wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 6:09 pmOoh, I saw them at MRRF last year. Looks like it adds a whole lot of backlash, because that torque cable and gearbox has a bunch of windup, and so you have to fiddle with retraction settings. You'll be on team direct drive 4 lyfe if you've ever had to fish 30+ pieces of shattered PLA, each less than 10 mm long, out of your Bowden tube after a particularly bad filament experience.
Agree 100%. Yet the 3D printing community seems to spend as much time printing upgrades for their printers than something useful. Kind of "art for art's sake". So, hats off to Christoph Laimer for his 600W 3D printed motor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFvMC3l3fGY
