jonb wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 8:44 am
My concern about an aluminium plate is that it isn't magnetic, so I can't buy a magnetic pad for it (well, I can buy it, but it won't stick!
).
Doesn’t matter. The magnetic bed kits should come with a flexible self adhesive magnet. So they work with any surface.
Clearly much to learn here. I've been mighty impressed with the ease of use you get with the magnetic base. Though as I understand it, they won't tolerate high bed temperatures, so you couldn't print nylon or ABS on one.
Yes you can. The Ender 3 magnetic base only goes to 80C. The more expensive ones like whambam go to 120c.
I thought Creality had used glass because it's very smooth and hence easier to get the print off. I've heard (read, really) various horror stories of warped Ender 3 beds and this did concern me. A float glass bed should fix that.
Yes and no. It is all cost relative. A tooled aluminium plate, I.e. flat, will cost 3 time more than regular aluminium. But we are taking £15 instead of £5. Although you do then need a surface on top of that. So really it just because glass it cheapest, but not 8 my opinion the best, way of doing it
Just pondering the bed levelling thing. I assume it works by measuring the bed at various points, then adding an offset to compensate for a non level bed. So far so good, but the bottom of your print is still going to be off. I don't recall seeing any levelling wheels under the CR-6 bed; I think we'll need them to get the thing square (thereafter relying on the self level function). What I'm saying is, we want to have as little offset added to our models as possible, if that makes sense?
It takes the points and works out what the bed looks like the more points the more accurate. You can then use baby steps and z offset to get it exactly right. So in theory you don’t need to level the bed Manually. And some of the More expensive 3D printers have no manual levelling at all. Also if you have a fixed plate it can’t go out of level while printing, I.e by someone knocking a wheel.
)