stardot.org.uk

Yey!

I think you might have to rewrite the library in order to let it use the two separate baud rates, but once you've done that, the light-weight option is to tell the FreeFi-232 firmware on the stardot github to use software serial instead of hardware serial, and work on the basis that it's hard-coded ...

Further - just looking - it might be possible to coax it into playing at 1200/75 using the software serial library: https://github.com/plerup/espsoftwarese ... Serial.cpp

It won't be as reliable as the hardware library, but it's not going very fast so it might just work!

d.

Hey there! If they're hardwired to communicate 1200/75, it's problematic. If there's scope to configure the comms settings, the world's your oyster? Some of them have built in modems iirc? Firmware wise it's just a question of rejiggling the firmware to respond to whatever commands the terminal is a...

You'll probably find it works happily from now on. Make sure all the grounds are connected (at the risk of egg-sucking education). Well done!

d.

Welcome! Poor old A7000 :( Snip the battery out. Distilled vinegar is indeed the way forward. Brushing it on isn't really sufficient, but you don't have to treat the entire board. Get the board out, remove everything you can. Pour vinegar over the corroded areas, agitate with an old toothbrush. Pour...

Is this using the v2.5 board? Flashing is good, it means it's booting. You should see it twiddling the light as it attempts to kick it into programming mode. They can be a bit temperamental.

d.

You can also consider using this firmware: https://github.com/drdpj/Zimodem -> it's rather better featured, but it's not fully "converted". If it doesn't work it's because I've not pushed the latest version to github. I'll try and remember to do that tomorrow when I've got that machine going.

d.

It doesn't do anything with the eeprom thing - you can just comment that out or delete it, my bad leaving it in -
Programmer just leave as is - you're not using one, it doesn't take any notice of that setting.

There's no real reason to use the programming header for anything but programming, so it's labelled with what you should connect to it rather than what it actually is

I agree silkscreen isn't too clear - Anode should be on the pad behind USB. Cathode pointing towards left hand side. If you're not powering it from USB, don't worry about fitting it, it's a bit fiddlesome.

d.

You're welcome - bugs are someone else's fault

d.

I was wondering that...

I think it's time for some new ones There's a project for abug.

d.

It's like it slightly looses hsync here and there, and the vsync position flicks intermittently. Short/sharp rather than gentle drifting.

d.

It's more a whole-screen instability with mine. Clearly it's something that's not yielding a nice smooth-whatever (technical analysis by me there )

d.

Me cub's started going wobbly in the picture department... Am I correct in thinking this is one of those occasions where replacing all the electrolytics might be the simplest course of action? Are there a few other things I should check first?

d.

But not which models, and I don’t have a Hakko, so no idea. I only drool over JCL, I don’t like the athestics of the Hakko, I can never get over the fact it looks like ‘my first soldering iron’ and is something you give to 10 year olds. I had that with Windows XP... You can get it in silver if you ...

Yup. I find if I've overdone it I can just drag all the excess up to one end and wick it off. Did we mention flux? Flux. Flux flux.

I have no idea if those aoyue tips fit a hakko (I think not), but the tips Charlie and I linked are the same, and for the hakko.

There are two I use are T18-C2 and T18-D24 - it doesn't matter if you get too much solder on, it's easy enough to remove the excess with braid. Key is lots of liquid flux before you hit it with the solder that's stuck to the iron

d.

More screws on top? Check under the label? I've not done one of these myself so I'm guessing. Also the plastic grommets in the side will i need to come out if there are any.

All the images are broken

Our very own Dave Hitchins

d.

System 6522 is the next likely candidate if you don't have any scope/logic probe facility.

I seriously recommend people try a bit of surface mount - it's actually much easier than it looks and it's so much neater!

Nice acquisition! There aren't lead fumes from leaded solder unless you evaporate it at ridiculously high temps. It's just flux fumes and you get those from leaded and unleaded alike. Just don't stick your head over it

d.

Careful now, let's not waltz into politicalness - that way madness lies! Retrocomputing forum about retrocomputing

I did a bit. You can probably see why I said "no more!"

Hello!

d.

No idea as I've never run a level 3, but beebem emulates econet, plus you can emulate the copro.