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I buy most of my xilinx cplds from china via aliexpress. Some have looked odd, with slightly too-large lettering or some other visual artifact that aroused suspicion. They have all been fine though. They all programmed first time, retained their programming, and there have been no weird occurrences ...

Quite far gone I'd say, like this Atari 800 xl.

I've never used bone, and I'm always happy with the finish as-is so I can't be any help there I'm afraid. Sorry

I use vinyl dye to colour plastics. It apparently bonds with the plastic rather than covering it, so it doesn't chip or peel. It also doesn't affect the texture of the surface you're painting as much as a regular paint. The colour range is slightly limited though, and it's more expensive. Still wort...

I have boards available. They are built on demand and are usually customised according to the demands of the Atom that they are destined to fit. Feel free to email me at charlie_robson@hotmail.com.

C

See first post regarding email address, thanks.

// start the clocks CLOCKINIT(); // ensure all ADC channels, comparators are off ADCON1 = 0b00001111; CMCON = 0x07; TRISA = 0b11011111; // enable pullups on port B INTCON2bits.RBPU=0; // Make Port B an input. TRISB = 0xFF; // lights out REDLEDOFF(); GREENLEDOFF(); LEDPINSOUT(); // read config byte ...

The green LED indicates an SD card access. If there's no card in the interface it won't initialise, so no irq. IIRC.

jdavis6809 wrote:Any change of a copy of the source so I can try with the oric / atmos

Sounds like a fun project. Is this for personal enlightenment and education?

one thing i noticed is that when the ATOMMC2 is unplugged, the ACORN ATOM + ATOMMC2 never comes up. i will try pulsing the irq line and see if the heading changes to the ATOMMC2 ... :) The interface generates an IRQ at power-on. No interface, no IRQ. No AtoMMC. As you might expect. When the OS ROM ...

This is as designed. An error in the PCB means that I need to re-route a pin. It is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. The chip in question here is an address decoder and it has nothing to do with SD card initialisation, that is handled by the PIC processor. MMC and SD cards are tricky bea...

The cable is now integral to the board. It's s tiny bit trickier to put together but it makes more sense.

Manual linking's no fun though, is it?

E000 AtoMMC requires a patched FP ROM.

Flux. Problems at home? Flux. Car won't start? Flux. Toast burned? Flux. Donald Trump? Flux. I could go on.

Too much solder perhaps? You need only the tiiiiiiiinyiest touch for a tqfp. A bit more for a sodip. And flux. Lots of it. The more toxic the better :lol: Moar colons. I don't tack any more, i just flux up, hold the chip in the right place, touch a tiny bit of solder on the tip. With a wet the tip t...

"Mr.Yokoo: Soldering irons will not disappear as long as there are people like you interested in electronic handicrafts.
Hikaru : Yes, indeed. We cannot install a reflow machine in our home.
Mr.Yokoo: That's right. Ha-ha-ha-ha (Laughing)"

All I remember about it is that you can have floating point line numbers in basic..

10.1 GO TO 22.3

Yes, still available. Pre-built only though. Disk image support is possible and also the ability to use individual files on the card. There is an (old but still relevant) manual online here. I should really update it

waltermixxx wrote:are there two versions of the ATOMMC?

No.

The first prototypes attached to PL7, and were bit-banged using the VIA. There have been no boards made like this for many years. All AtoMMCs are pic-powered.

C

Haha actually it's disgusting stuff but I have a good fan Colophony == Rosin.

Prime wrote:

sirmorris wrote:I now use a Weller liquid flux

You have a link for that Charlie?

Indeed I do.

vanpeebles wrote:Erk, I just ordered a flux pen too. A Kester 951?

/me clears throat

I'm sure it'll be fine, they're just not for me and the kind of work I do.

A couple of you have now mentioned drag soldering, and it's something I've previously watched a video tutorial for. I'm wondering how easy it is, really, for someone who's practiced at soldering and neither ridiculously dextrous nor a klutz? I'm guessing I should pick up a few cheap components to t...

Re: No-clean flux. It's a misleading name. All flux needs cleaning off if you're interested in how your board looks. The no clean should really be called 'won't damage your board if you leave it on' flux, or 'it's not going to leave an amber residue but you can still see it as a glassy pool on your ...

For drag soldering (in fact all soldering these days) I find a nice ellipsoid tip works a charm. Hakko T18-C3 is my go-to choice. The flat area allows you to create some surface tension which pulls the bead of solder along behind it. (Antex #50 )

I have ordered an XS25. Yaay! With the silicone lead I hope! It is suitable for lead solder? [-o< Hahaha is there any other sort??! :D You probably won't regret buying something like this if you haven't already got one. This one isn't necessarily a recommendation, just the first one that popped up.

+1 for Dancap! Before Hakko I always bought Antex. The XS25 is a cracker , and you can get them with ultra-flexible (and heatproof!!) silicone cable for a few quid more. Loads of heat in the tip because of the design where the tip surrounds the element. Nice to hold. Worth every penny. Sits nicely w...

You're a star, Phill!

Is the flag held high too long? Is it being recognised a second time? I think some logic analysing might be called for! To the logic analyser!