stardot.org.uk

I'll post a full BOM once I've finalised it, along with RS part numbers. Patience

d.

Yes.
Socket: RS Stock No.544-3828
Switch: RS Stock No.756-1644
MAX3237: RS Stock No.660-7685

The rest should be fairly straight forward. Make sure the tants are case size B and 10V or more.

d.

It's the one on github - it should be just about right (although I don't think it's the right USB connector): https://github.com/stardot/esp8266_modem/blob/master/kicad/FreeFi232Large/BOM.csv Once I'm sure it works I'll put up a proper BOM. The only things likely to change are the number of resistor...

I'd recommend getting a temp controlled iron - it makes life much easier. Lots of people on here use the Hakko fx888d - good value and good quality. Do make sure you get it from a genuine distributer, as there are quite a few counterfeit ones doing the rounds. SMD seems daunting at first but it's re...

Hey Robin - it's all SMD I'm afraid. No time to learn like the present I guess! :? :shock: - what soldering weapon have you got? The ESP12 is SMD, and the level shifter I'm using isn't available as a DIP so I just did everything as SMD (it makes the routing a bit easier too as you can run underneath...

For GitHub projects the best way to get the attention of the contributors is to raise an issue.

But yes, get coding

I've just done the same, works like a charm - particularly good as the latest OSX broke compatibility with beebem

d.

The backplate of the master's motherboard is attached to the motherboard so you don't need to desolder anything. You either have to unscrew it or desolder it on a beeb though.

I assume you mean genuine FTDI chips, ebay one is probably genuine fake. My hookup wires are genuine bits of wire. But it could also be due to the 5v supply as I am driving it at the limit, or it could be because the Electron was dying, as now it is not well. Yes, I do mean the IC. I'm fairly convi...

Maybe. But I use this one all the time with other TTL serial stuff without issue (same jumper wires as well come to think of it), but obviously I dont usually put it through a max3232. Likewise (although it did need an extra pullup on the FreeFi232) - but upurs was/is (afaik) particularly persnicke...

Experience suggests those cheap ftdi boards don't use real ftdi chips... The signal out of mine (I have 3) isn't too clean...

Hullo Peter

d.

Hello there!

Don't use superglue. Top tip.

You can:
Use a gbs 8200 scan converter or equivalent to convert to vga.
Use a monitor that can display pal modes (eg, benq bl912).
Use hoglet's new dvi/hdmi converter with a monitor that has an hdmi/dvi input.

Posts discussing the new beebscsi moved to here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15139#p204499

Yes I was looking at the BOM and wonder which to order. But assume with the exception of fitting under the Beeb this is just personal preferencance. The straight will fit a standard cable better as the connector is at right angles to the cable. The right angle will plug directly into the AP5. You w...

Only the mini fits under the beeb (and only the beeb, not the master). Straight through hole male for cable dangling: https://www.domesday86.com/?page_id=409 ... _Materials

But the right angled can be used for the AP5.

Glad it's working! Only "enhancement" I'm intending to add is the dacom compatibility mode and eeprom saving of various settings. If anyone wants anything else I would encourage them to contribute it

Duncan, I'm assuming it's a character in your password that's different on the beeb... No idea what though. Once the WiFi is set up the esp12 remembers it.
d.

Use commstar version 1.4. Once connected change from terminal to viewdata mode and ensure you press I and change the speeds back to 2400 before pressing C to enter chat mode again (ie connect to the modem).

Commstar 2 won't work.

Fork the repository, write the relevant code, upload it to your repository, and make a pull request? :) At which point I can pull the code in and merge it with the master source? Re. "other NC in cable" - this looks like a modem, it's up to the end user to decide how to connect it to their computer....

Use esptool.py to completely erase the flash, then start again:
https://nodemcu.readthedocs.io/en/latest/en/flash/


d.

It's the ESP8266 on the NodeMCU that's not 5V tolerant. Max3232 can work over a voltage range, and converts ~ between 3 and 5V to 12V and back again, MAX232 is just designed to work at 5V. http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/max232.pdf -> it's why I used the 3237 (same as the 3232 but with more transce...

Right - so - the firmware in the main repository is designed to work with the new hardware - if you check the releases page, there's the last version that I had working nicely with the lolin setup. On a more positive note though, if this one works with the lolin board, that's all to the good. Have a...

RTS/CTS will need uncrossing too. Wiring is as per: Edit: You can turn off hardware flow, in which case those lines are just ignored, but it does reduce reliability on the beeb end at higher speeds.

"uncrossing" will involve a 9-pin to 9-pin, or 25-pin to 9 pin.. Ergo I'd have thought you may as well just build a straight through RS232-25pin-male to BBC 5pin and only have one cable in the chain. I'm only using a 25pin to 9pin adapter as I'd already built a straight through beeb->9pin, and I'm a...

I'm anything but a football fan, but I've quite enjoyed this little stint

Yes, and no crossover needed as the rs232 is wired up as a modem's would be (ie DCE). You need a crossover if you connect two data terminals together (ie computers).

(and yes, all five pins are connected to give hw flow control )

d.

That's fine - you're just pulling/biasing/somethingerising a line. I remember doing this and thinking it shouldn't be measuring zero, but it was, and it was and it was fine that it was

d.